Knowing little about Hoi An, we started out dropped off in a tailors shop who were friends of Le Family Riders. We naively assumed they were just making small talk and giving us tea before we paid the bill and headed to our hotel.
Hoi An is famous for it tailors, the streets are lined with shops who will make you anything you want, a suit? Jacket? Shoes? Nothing is too hard for them. We were sat in front of catalogues, I was initially confused with the prices being in pounds until noticing the “Next UK” logo, and asked if we wanted anything. I have no use for a suit, my current suit is only dusted off when someone dies and I really hope I never get a job that forces me to wear one, so quickly dismissed their sales pitch. I was tempted with some form of smart jacket, but decided to stick with we are backpacking and this is far from essential, plus we would have to post anything home as carrying that sort of thing when it’s this hot is just silly. We made our excuses, ignored the hard(ish) sell and moved on.
The town of Hoi An is simply beautiful, a river runs straight through the middle with streets of shops, restaurants and bars all lit with Asian style lights. The locals sell cardboard Chinese style boxes with candles in them which you lay in the river and watch them float down, charming doesn’t quite cut it. We were once again in oldie travelling territory, lots of groups of people aged 50+ wandering the town, I can see the appeal as it’s all very easy to eat, drink and relax for a few days.
Renting some bikes, we headed down to the beach side where Annie got cornered by some guy who wouldn’t let her go down the road. We couldn’t quite figure out who he was employed by, as he was insisting that we park our bikes in the parking lot whilst letting tons of other cyclists past. When asked why they were allowed through he replied he knew them, they lived there – this was big groups of tourists and locals – ridiculous. Instead of making a scene, we just went around the back of his car park and continued on our way, you ain’t scamming us! A little secluded bar and beach area made a fine way to spend the afternoon.
Booking in for a local farming and cooking day just outside of the town in a small village, we hired a couple of bikes again and headed to the local market, Helen from the tour showed us the local fruit, veg and seafood before we headed to the farm to get stuck in.
Starting with farming, we were handed local clothes to put on and headed out to collect seaweed from the the water. Taking the seaweed we then went though the locals’ method of plotting, planting and watering. All good fun, the family really seem to enjoy what they do. I doubt our pitch was going to be great – I suspect they will dig it up for the next set of visitors.
Next up was Water Buffalo Riding, animal rights over here are non-existent, I do my best to avoid all activities where they are used, previously Annie fancied going to an Elephant “Sanctuary” but from experience these places should be avoided as most are just animals dragged around for fat western tourists, though we have our eyes on visiting a proper sanctuary in the future. For the buffalo I was undecided as they are used in farming here and appear to be in okay condition. Annie asked one of the owners “does this hurt the animal?”, language barrier kicked in and we got the usual reply when you haven’t been understood of “yes”, um… We ended up going on for a quick trot around the paddock, it wasn’t comfortable or an enjoyable experience at all, I’ll stick with my gut instinct in future.
The final part of the day was cooking some Vietnamese dishes, we went through the process of making rice paper; grinding the rice down to flour, cooking the flour on a thin cotton sheet, then rolling them into spring rolls filled with herbs and eating fresh. By this point I was so hungry and would have eaten anything, turns out they were superb, really tasty. Will try and recreate the method at home for sure. After them we were shown how to make various other Vietnamese dishes which turned out rather well.
A great experience and a really lovely town, glad we stopped here on our way south.